Lets talk about the transition from dark brown to blonde , i'm going to put it out there that this is a big task for many reasons;
If you consider your self a dark brown naturally, its important to understand the lightening process for you wont be an easy one, because your hair colourist is pretty much going against what your natural hair should be doing. When you are dark naturally your hairs underlying pigments are RED/RED-ORANGE.
If your naturally a lighter brown, mousy blonde or anywhere in between it is so easy to take you blonde it'll pretty much happen instantly because your underlying pigments are ORANGE-GOLD /GOLD-YELLOW .
To achieve a blonde you see on Instagram which is usually 'icy pearly or ashy' you need to be the most palest yellow to achieve this, otherwise your hair will continue throw those dreaded yellow tones we all want to avoid.
Now this is probably making no sense because your not a stylist so i will upload photos of the lightening process for you below:
(if it is making sense gold star :P)
Refer to picture above:
If you are between levels 1-5 your hair is going to be hard to lighten and will throw of a lot of RED/ORANGE tones, if you are a client of Capelli we will show you along the way how your hair has lifted and what we need to do to hide these tones temporarily before your next session, instead of just seeing the finishing product and wondering why you did not achieve level 10 ice hair. We have found this technique to be very helpful with getting our guests to understand the stages of lightening.
If you are between levels 6-8 the chances of you becoming your goal colour is a lot easier than the ones with darker hair, and you wont feel as much as a difference in your hair texture feel or have minimal dryness because your hair is already a lot easier to lift.
Picture A above took 1-2 sessions to absolutely perfect (she was all natural) while Picture B took 4-5 sessions to perfect, (she had colour bands which resembled fire)
The difference is their starting colour.
One is level 8 ( see guide above) and the other is starting level 4.
Picture B will need a lot more lightening sessions, will feel dry to touch and less shiny compared to picture A, this is all due to underlying pigments and natural lightening levels.
Although to a hair dresser picture A & B are both in amazing condition, hairs integrity is perfect the Guest will feel a lot DRYER, FRIZZIER because the pigments have been completely stripped of its hairs natural pigment.
HOW WILL IT FEEL? AND WHY?
Now as the lightening process starts your hairs texture will completely change because you are now stripping out all of your hairs natural pigments which will mean your hair will feel completely different, it may feel dryer, frizzier and even take longer to dry. This is all part of the lightening process as you are completely changing your hairs bonds unfortunately there is absolutely nothing you can do to stop this. Using a bond protectant is a must of lightening processes like this and has completely changed the way us hairdressers are able to lighten hair. (we use blondpro to help the hairs integrity)
My only advice to you is to take it slow, and if you cant stand the way it feels after your first lightening session do not continue to lighten.
If you use alot of HOT TOOLS (eg straightener etc) wear it up alot, your actually also damaging the structure which again result in drying. using hot tools without TEMP GUIDES will burn your colour out a lot quicker and can even result in yellowing patches and serious breakage. you should not use a HEAT TOOL on any hotter than 185 DEGREES.
80°C Smooth frizz and flyaways
105°C Styling damaged hair
130°C Styling fine hair
160°C Styling loose waves or natural styles
185°C Standard styling and straightening
210°C Coarse, unruly hair
Before you book the appointment from DARK to LIGHT you must consider a few things,
1. the price tag
Colouring your hair is never going to be an inexpensive endeavor.
6 weekly touch ups are must, which we are talking a lot of time and money.
Once you commit to that its also just as important to get the correct Hair care supplies to ensure your looking after your hair at home.
Lightening sessions for colour corrections take around 4-4.5 hours and sessions must be 6 weeks apart. Pricing changes for every correction as they're all different. (for quotes please book in for a consultation)
One of the plus sides to lightening your hair is obviously the beautiful colour you'll achieve and not needing to wash your hair daily as your hair wont be as oily!
As a salon we require colour corrections to book in for a CONSULTATION+TEST STRAND so we can tell you in depth how it'll lighten in the first session.
We make sure all parties are on the same page and have a clear understanding on how long it may take, what precautions you'll need to do along with educating you on the correct home care to safe guard your hair.
If your hair is previously coloured its a completely different ball game as store bought colour or salon dye is the hardest to remove (sometimes not possible especially if you've had the colour pulled though every single time) from there we will determine weather this process is for you!
Doing a test strand allows us not to go in "blind" we will know exactly what your hair will be able to lift to in one session (as will you understand you wont be blonde) and i know your hair is safe from any chemical reactions that could happen along the way. Remember we are working with serious chemicals, Science & most importantly Hair Bonds.
WHAT TO DO BEFORE WE LIGHTEN?!
Before you start this process it is so important to be using correct hair care to hydrate and nourish your hair before you start to strip out all of your natural pigments.
our recommendations for all of our clients is to use either GOLDWELL OR ELEVEN.
We know it is 100% safe with our colouring products, we know the ingredients will not react with our colour company and it is clear from non-water soluble silicons.
Shampoo and Conditioner is important but so is using leave in products which you'll dry into your hair after you've wash it.
1.Miracle treatment is a #1 salon favourite,
2.Just smooth taming serum (great for dryness and frizz)
3. KMS quick dry Spray (cuts 50% of your drying time which youl'l need as going blonde will take it longer to dry)
4. Just Smooth Thermal Spray Serum (spray when hair is wet and dry every day to protect against uv and heat tools)
Third most important tip is getting a hair treatment which will absolutely make your hair feel like brand new.
One of our biggest sellers in salon for anyone worried about the way their hair feels is defiantly NIOXIN INTENSIVE MASK.
this not only repairs, but makes your hair feel silky and smooth while repairing the hair back to its normal self! We even request that once you start lightening to use this every wash as your conditioner to help improve the feel for you!!
Blondpro is an absolute salon requirement, which you add into your lightening service that helps protect and strengthen your hairs bonds while keeping your hairs integrity. Blondpro is a 3 part system which is added into your lightener, added as a in salon treatment Post lightening and thirdly you get given a take home treatment to be used once a week.
please go to my blog "blondpro" to find out more.
These two products go absolutely hand in hand with one another.
Once you've achieved your desired colour it is so important that you keep up with your toning appointments as toners will only last roughly 4-6 week depending on your natural colour. if you feel you don't need a toner , coming for a intensive treatment and trim will keep your hair healthy and growing. Remember what your hair has gone through, and it is so important to look after it even when you've achieve your desired colour. one of the biggest mistakes i see clients do, is get to their goal colour and neglect their hair. of coarse condition will deteriorate you need to look after your investment because after all it is your investment!!!
If you ever have ANY concerns with the way your hair feels, it is our job as your hair dresser to help guide and educate you, checking in with your colourist with any concerns is not annoying. i know if your a client and your worried about something (because you've never gone lighter and it feels funny or its taking age to dry and your unsure if that's normal) We as a salon will do whatever in our power to reassure you.
this is an important subject over use will dry your hair out, and this is something we want you to absolutely avoid. purple shampoo should be used fortnightly and left in for 5 minutes if needed, once you use purple shampoo it is a must that you follow up with blondpro and a mask.
please make sure you are doing a normal hydrating shampoo previous to using purple shampoo.
if you feel that you do not need to use purple shampoo, don't use it.
Here is some examples of some huge level 6 and below colour corrections.
(all pictures below show the difference between the session in the chair on the same day)
most of these colour corrections have hidden the underlying pigments from using a more ash dark based toner to keep them from going orange between sessions, none of these before and afters are finished colour corrections and is either their first or second corrective session. we will never let you walk out looking ORANGE.
Here is some examples of some huge level 6 and above colour corrections.
Notice how the blonde is brighter and have achieved a clean crisp blonde in one session this is all due to having underlying pigments of orange-gold or gold-yellow.